Tehran-94I stepped out on the balcony of Tehran's "Isteglal" hotel: the city on the hills was covered in a haze, either from smog or from the greenhouse effect caused by the difference between day and night temperatures (we call it şeynəm). It was probably a bit of both: there are a lot of car models from the 1960s in the city, and as the hot July sun goes down the temperature in the mountains noticeably drops and the air saturated with vapor con...

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