When Ilham Aliyev told a gathering of non-oil exporters in 2017 that Azerbaijan’s wineries were operating at only 20–30 per cent of their 100m-bottle annual capacity, the message was clear: viticulture would be revived, factories would run at full tilt and exports would “increase sharply”[1]. A year later, Baku adopted the 2018–2025 State Programme on the Development of Viticulture and Winemaking, pledging to quin...

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