On sunny weekends in May, residents of the Azerbaijani capital once again head for the sea. The beaches of Bilgah, Mardakan, and Buzovna are already welcoming their first visitors. Children build sandcastles, fishermen cast their lines, and cars line the shoreline, some driving almost to the water’s edge. The Caspian Sea has always been part of Azerbaijan’s identity. It gave the country oil, helped transform Baku into one of the wo...

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