The slim corridor that some Azeris call the Belt of Happiness starts at Baku’s Heydar Aliyev International airport. The new road into town is as black and shiny as the vast pools of oil that paid for it, as well as for everything else in Azerbaijan. And what oil doesn’t pay to fix, it pays to hide. Sand-colored concrete walls line the highway, but through their latticed arabesques you can just make out the woeful shacks behind them. The Belt of...

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